There’s so many warnings out there about scammers and cheats targeting travelers. If you do any research on a trip to Egypt, you’ll find stories on taxi drivers who claim your hotel burned down, but they can take you to a better one. Camel drivers who insist on extra money at the end. Friendly locals who invite you to share a meal, but then you’re charged an outrageous price. I’ve read the guide books, the blogs, and watched numerous videos on unsettling experiences. So for our visit to the tourist towns along the Nile, we were cautious. But I’m happy to report that for a few extra dollars, we had some great experiences with “the hustle”.
First, a friendly local at the market in Aswan. Upon hearing that we’re looking for spices, he of course has his own shop down the street. We don’t believe him — he’ll get a percentage from the actual owner if he takes us there and we buy something. But we’ll be marked as foreigners no matter which shop we enter, and as Bob likes to joke, “Why did God invent tourists? Because someone has to pay full price.” So we head to the shop with him.
We step into an array of color and scents in the large shop. Teas and cooking spices are arranged in glass jars and bins. Each time I lift a lid there is a whiff of another exotic seasoning. We drink tea, sample spices, and chat amiably with the shopkeeper who is clad in a traditional gallabiyah. (His young assistant wears jeans and a tee shirt.) No doubt a local or a hardnosed negotiator could have purchased the coffee and hibiscus powder cheaper, but we had a pleasant half hour and no regrets.
Walking down the tourist aisles of the market, I expected a lot of hard sell. But it’s really just some friendly banter: “Let me help you spend your money”, or “I don’t know what you want, but I have it!” At no time did we feel hassled.
Later, in the same market, we’re approached by a local asking if we’re sailing on the Princess Sarah. He’s recognized us, as he works in the kitchen on the ship. (Doubtful! He probably just saw us existing the ship earlier.) What are we looking for, he knows a lot of the vendors and can help us get a better price. (Or a kickback?) We chat with him as we cruise the market, stopping at any shop that looks interesting, and eventually one he recommends. He tells us about his hometown, and how his family has a healing business that can help me with my limp. It’s an enjoyable and a relaxed conversation.
Next he suggests a coffee place where Bob can get some tea to help with his cough. Now I’m suspicious. But it’s daylight and busy, so we allow him to steer us down a side alley to a small café. There is stone flooring, well used tables and chairs, and florescent light bulbs strung from the ceiling. A place I would never have felt comfortable walking into alone, as it’s filled with locals and there are no signs in English (or women, for that matter!) Two men wearing gabaliyas are playing backgammon among friends, one smoking a shisha water pipe. We are clearly out of place, but the coffee aroma entices, and I’m led in by my nose.
Our new friend orders for us; the coffee and tea are prompt and excellent. He also notices Bob’s interest in the backgammon game, which he mentions to the group. They wave Bob over. He takes a chair and relaxes, just one of the guys, but their moves are so fast he can barely do the mental math. We are both content to sip our drinks and soak in the atmosphere. A rare chance to get away from our tourist itinerary.
The check comes and I’m fearing the worst, but how much can they gouge us for two coffees and a tea? I’m pleasantly surprised that the total is just a few Egyptian pounds.
As we head out of the market, we offer our friend some pounds as a thanks. He did not ask for anything, but appreciated the cash.
It’s still wise to be cautious and protect yourself, and be wary of friendly locals when you are obviously a stranger in a strange land. But in this case, we spent a few extra dollars, and had some interesting conversations and a cool experience at a coffee house. It was well worth the price of admission.
If nothing else, I admire the hustle of the Egyptian people.
